INGREDIENT INTELLIGENCE

How to build a men's skincare routine that actually does something

A men's routine that does real work takes a few steps and a couple of minutes. What to use, in what order, and why restraint beats a crowded shelf.

BY FREDDIE SHERIDANFOUNDER, YCODE4 MIN READ
How to build a men's skincare routine that actually does something

The short answer is four things, in order: cleanse, treat, protect and tend to the eyes. A cleanser, a hydrating serum, a moisturiser and an eye serum, morning and night, in two to three minutes. Most products sold beyond those four steps add little.

Two things tend to sink a routine. The first is buying products drawn up for someone else's face. Men's skin is its own proposition: thicker and denser in collagen2, oilier, and running at a different pH and hydration level to women's1, and put under daily strain by the razor. The second is over-complication. A twelve-step regimen is difficult to sustain, and a routine only works if it is kept up.

4steps, morning and night
2–3minutes, start to finish
94%felt well-hydrated and comfortable (regime, 4-week trial)

Why Most Men's Routines Fail

Most routines fail because they are abandoned. Skin responds to repetition more than to the number of products used, so the real measure of a routine is whether it is sustained over months rather than how advanced it is. A short routine is easier to keep up through busy periods, which gives the results time to accumulate. A complex routine is more likely to be dropped within weeks.

The four-step men's routine Cleanse, treat, protect and tend to the eyes, morning and night, in two to three minutes. THE SYSTEM Four steps, morning and night 1 Cleanse Clear the day's build-up. 2 Treat A serum carries actives deep. 3 Protect A moisturiser seals it in. 4 Eyes The thinnest skin, tended daily. TWO TO THREE MINUTES · MORNING AND NIGHT

Where Cleansing Fits

At the top. Cleansing is the groundwork the rest of the routine stands on, lifting the sweat, sunscreen and city grime that would otherwise sit between your skin and everything you apply next. It counts double for men, whose oilier skin1 collects more of that residue through the day. The brief is simple: clean skin that does not feel tight afterwards. A cleanser that leaves you squeaky has stripped the barrier, and a stripped barrier leaks water and works against the hydration steps that follow3. A YCODE cleanser, built for precisely this job, arrives soon.

The Treat and Protect Steps

  • Treat A serum on clean skin travels furthest and carries the actives with it. Skin feels less tight after shaving and is less prone to mid-afternoon shine.
  • Protect A moisturiser holds that hydration and keeps oil in check, sealing water in and slowing the rate it escapes3. The result is comfortable, matte skin that stays hydrated through the day on a single morning application4.
  • Eyes The thinnest skin on the face, and the first to show a late night. A dedicated step leaves the eyes looking brighter and less tired, the concern men raise most.
Skin responds to repetition more than to the number of products used. A routine only delivers if it is simple enough to sustain.

What Results to Expect, and When

In an independent 4-week consumer trial of the YCODE regime, the hydrating serum and moisturiser used together (panel of 50 men), 94 per cent agreed their skin felt well-hydrated and comfortable throughout the day, and 84 per cent that it looked healthier and clearer when they used both products together. The mechanism is straightforward. A properly formulated cream raises skin hydration by a measurable margin5, and steady hydration settles the barrier and smooths texture over time. Expect comfort and less shine in the first week, more even tone by the second or third, and the structural gains around the month.

Built to Travel

A short routine of products that each do more than one job also packs down to very little, which makes it straightforward to travel with. Fewer bottles means less to carry and less to leave behind.

Every YCODE product is sized to sit within the 100ml carry-on limit, so nothing has to be surrendered at airport security or decanted into a travel bottle. The result is a routine that behaves the same in a hotel bathroom as it does at home.

How long should a men's skincare routine take?
Two to three minutes, morning and night. A longer routine is harder to sustain across the month.
Do I really need a cleanser?
Yes. It is the foundation the rest sits on, and it matters more for oilier skin that gathers more residue by evening1. A YCODE cleanser is on the way.
Is men's skin really different from women's?
It is. Thicker and denser in collagen2, oilier, and at a different pH and hydration level1, which is why skincare formulated for men behaves differently from a unisex formula in masculine packaging.
Will it fit in hand luggage?
Yes. Every product is sized to sit within the 100ml carry-on limit, so the whole routine clears airport security and travels in a carry-on without decanting.
REFERENCES
  1. Luebberding S, et al. Skin physiology in men and women: in vivo evaluation of 300 people including TEWL, SC hydration, sebum content and skin surface pH. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2013. PubMed 23713991
  2. Shuster S, et al. The influence of age and sex on skin thickness, skin collagen and density. British Journal of Dermatology, 1975. PubMed 1220811
  3. Purnamawati S, et al. The Role of Moisturizers in Addressing Various Kinds of Dermatitis: A Review. Clinical Medicine & Research, 2017. PMC5849435
  4. Nisbet SJ, et al. Single application of lamellar moisturizers provides significantly increased hydration of the stratum corneum for up to 24 hours in a randomized trial. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2020. PMC7687242
  5. Greive KA. Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin's own natural moisturizing systems. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2018. PMC6197824
Freddie Sheridan
Written by
Freddie Sheridan

I started YCODE because most skincare was never designed for men’s skin. What I write here is what the formulators taught me, and what the trials actually found.

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