INGREDIENT INTELLIGENCE

What has changed at 15 days

Five actives, five timelines, and at a fortnight they are not all in the same place. Where each one has got to, and why your own eye is the least reliable instrument you own.

BY FREDDIE SHERIDANFOUNDER, YCODE5 MIN READ
A man at a round mirror at home, applying eye serum

Fifteen days is the first point at which several parts of the formula have visible results to share.

This is not one hero ingredient doing all the work. It is five actives, chosen for different jobs, beginning to show what they can do together.

What to look for now

Take a photograph in the same natural light as your first. Look for smoother skin beneath the eye, dark circles sitting lighter and an overall impression of looking fresher and less tired.

Then run a fingertip gently along the skin beneath the eye and notice the texture.

The photograph matters because gradual improvement quickly becomes your new normal. Side by side, the distance travelled is easier to see.

Wild ginger, for a less tired appearance

After 15 days, among 111 volunteers with a mean age of 42:6

94%Reported looking less tired
90%Reported reduced dark circles
89%Reported an improved eye contour

At 15 minutes, those figures were 86%, 73% and 79%. Every measure increased over the fortnight, with the largest movement in reported dark circles.

In a separate instrumental assessment, SpectraCam imaging showed reduced under-eye hyperpigmentation in 87% of those measured.6

Red algae minerals, for smoother skin

At day 14, skin smoothness improved by 26.1% against placebo in 41 volunteers aged 40 to 60.7 It was recorded by frictiometer, an instrument that measures the resistance of the skin's surface as a probe passes over it. Rougher skin drags more, smoother skin less.

Smoothness is visible as well as tactile. A more even surface reflects light more evenly, so the area can appear less shadowed and more rested. Around the eye, where the skin is among the thinnest on the face,5 texture and appearance are close to the same thing.

The same red algae material also supports hydration and the barrier, with further measurements arriving around one month.

Fucoidan, building from week one

Fucoidan had already produced measured movement at day seven: an 8% reduction in the appearance of dark circles and 7% in crow's feet against placebo.8

Its value at 15 days is cumulative. It has been working while wild ginger and red algae minerals reach their next checkpoints.

Why dark circles move differently from one man to another

Under-eye darkness has several possible contributors: melanin, visible blood vessels beneath thin skin, fluid, inflammation and the shadow cast by the tear trough.12

Most people have more than one. Instrumental work comparing under-eye areas with and without dark circles found three factors occurring together: more melanin, more and wider capillaries carrying more blood, and thinner skin over both.3 That is why two men can use the same serum consistently and notice different aspects of the result first.

The formula approaches the area from several directions: optical correction, puffiness, hyperpigmentation, texture, hydration and barrier support.

Why studied levels matter

Clinical and laboratory findings belong to defined materials used under defined conditions. We used that evidence to choose the actives and build the formula around meaningful specifications.

This is formulation as craft: not collecting fashionable ingredient names, but understanding what each one contributes and when.

What happens next

At one month, hydration and barrier measurements become the next chapter. At two months, three-dimensional scanning shows how eye-bag volume continues to change.

The outer layer of skin replaces itself over about twenty days, and longer as you get older,4 so at 15 days you are partway through the first pass since your serum arrived.

Keep the method simple and identical. One grain of rice, both eyes, morning and night.

Where the serum fits

Advanced Eye Serum is the final targeted step of a complete two-minute routine. Apply Hydrating Face Serum first, follow with Mattifying Moisturiser, then use Advanced Eye Serum around the eye area to address dark circles, puffiness and fine lines.

For the first measured checkpoint, read the week the deeper work starts. For what a month changes, read what one month of consistency changes. And if you want to know which of the shadows you are dealing with, what your under-eyes are telling you separates them.

This is the checkpoint where most men quietly decide. Compare the photographs rather than your memory, and let the evidence make the case.

Freddie Sheridan

Founder

Why does the study say day 14 when the checkpoint is day 15?
The red algae smoothness measurement was taken on day 14. The checkpoint arrives at day 15 so you have completed a full fortnight of twice-daily use. We quote each figure at the day it was measured rather than rounding them together.
What if I cannot see a change yet?
Use photographs taken in the same natural light and from the same angle. Dark circles have several causes, so the first noticeable change may be texture, puffiness, shadow or how rested the area looks.
Why are my dark circles different from someone else's?
The balance of melanin, visible vessels, fluid and structural shadow differs from person to person.13 The dominant cause changes what becomes visible first.
Why do the actives report at different times?
They have different jobs and were assessed using different methods and timepoints. The timeline makes those individual clocks visible.
Should I expect more from here?
Yes. Hydration and barrier results are measured around one month, while three-dimensional eye-bag measurements continue from one to two months.
REFERENCES
  1. Sarkar R, Ranjan R, Garg S, Garg VK, Sonthalia S, Bansal S. Periorbital Hyperpigmentation: A Comprehensive Review. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. 2016;9(1):49-55. Source
  2. Roh MR, Chung KY. Infraorbital dark circles: definition, causes, and treatment options. Dermatologic Surgery. 2009;35(8):1163-1171. Source
  3. Mac-Mary S, Zornoza Solinis I, Predine O, et al. Identification of Three Key Factors Contributing to the Aetiology of Dark Circles by Clinical and Instrumental Assessments of the Infraorbital Region. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. 2019;12:919-929. Source
  4. Grove GL, Kligman AM. Age-associated changes in human epidermal cell renewal. Journal of Gerontology. 1983;38(2):137-142. Source
  5. Chopra K, Calva D, Sosin M, et al. A comprehensive examination of topographic thickness of skin in the human face. Aesthetic Surgery Journal. 2015;35(8):1007-1013. Source
  6. Sederma. Supplier ingredient documentation for a supercritical CO2 Zingiber zerumbet extract, studied at 1.5%. Participant self-assessment conducted by Eurofins Dermscan: 111 volunteers, 37 male and 74 female, mean age 42, assessed at 15 minutes and 15 days. SpectraCam imaging arm: 15 female volunteers.
  7. Supplier in vivo study of Lithothamnium calcareum with rice amylopectin, studied at 3%. 41 volunteers, 21 women and 20 men, aged 40 to 60, twice daily against placebo. Smoothness by frictiometer at day 14.
  8. BASF Care Creations. Supplier ingredient documentation for Seanactiv, a characterised fucoidan from Fucus vesiculosus, studied at a 1% use level, measured against placebo at day seven.
Freddie Sheridan
Written by
Freddie Sheridan

I started YCODE because most skincare was never designed for men’s skin. What I write here is what the formulators taught me, and what the trials actually found.

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